BEGINNING <<----------------- CUT HERE ----------------->> BEGINNING
alt.smokers.pipes FAQ
[Revised 3 September 2000]
OUTLINE
1. GENERAL.
1.1 Introduction.
1.2 Posting Guidelines.
1.3 What should I do when I see an "inappropriate" post?
2. BEGINNING PIPE SMOKING.
2.1 How should I select my first pipe?
2.2 How should I select my first tobacco?
2.3 How should I store my tobacco?
2.4 How do I "break in" a pipe?
2.5 How should I "pack" my pipe?
2.6 How should I light my pipe?
2.7 How do I keep my pipe lit?
2.8 How should I clean my pipe?
2.9 Why is my tongue "charred"?
2.10 Why is my pipe "gurgling"?
3. "ADVANCED" TOPICS.
3.1 How should I ream my pipe?
3.2 What can I do when my pipe "turns sour"?
3.3 How can I fix a loose stem?
3.4 What should I do with a stem that's too tight?
3.5 How should I polish my stems?
3.6 How should I care for my meerschaum?
3.7 Why do people buy expensive pipes?
3.8 Is pipe smoking bad for me?
3.9 Should I store my pipe with a cleaner in the stem?
3.10 How do I smoke "flake tobaccos"?
3.11 Does tobacco improve with age?
3.12 How many pipes do I need?
3.13 Can I make my own pipes?
4. PIPE RESOURCES ON THE 'NET.
5. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS, ETC.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
This is the alt.smokers.pipes Frequently Asked Questions
document. Its purpose is to provide an introduction to the newsgroup
and present some general information on the Fine Art of Pipe
Smoking. Please keep in mind that pipe smoking is indeed an art and
not a science. There is no "wrong" way to smoke a pipe, just as
there is no single "right" way. You will not learn how to smoke a
pipe by reading this FAQ, or by reading anything else for that
matter. You can only learn to smoke a pipe by actually doing so.
The suggestions here are just that; your mileage may vary. The key
is to relax and enjoy yourself. If your technique works for you,
then it's right!
This FAQ will be posted biweekly to alt.smokers.pipes, and is
archived at:
http://lathem.home.mindspring.com/pipes/asp_faq.txt
and on the Pipes Web Page at:
http://www.pipes.org/asp_FAQ.html
Suggestions for improvement are always welcome and should be directed
to:
marklathem@usa.net
Requests for clarification or expansion of specific points should
be posted to alt.smokers.pipes. You are to be congratulated, by
the way, for reading the FAQ before asking your question.
You are welcome to post to alt.smokers.pipes; however, you
should probably read the newsgroup for a while (a week or two,
perhaps), just to get a feel for the newsgroup before posting your
first article. If you're new to USENET, or to the Internet in
general, you'll certainly want to take a look at the documents posted
to the newsgroup "news.announce.newusers," and you might want to
visit some of the sites listed below:
AOL's Internet Development and Outreach Team's "netiquette" (Internet
etiquette) guide:
http://webmaster.info.aol.com/netiquette/usenet/
RFC1855, a comprehensive list of "Netiquette Guidelines":
http://www.dtcc.edu/cs/rfc1855.html
"Net Lingo" (commonly used terms on the Internet):
http://www.netlingo.com/
Just about anything related to pipe smoking is welcome on
alt.smokers.pipes. That includes, but is not limited to, discussions
of the merits of specific pipes and pipe manufacturers, tobaccos,
tobacco manufacturers and tobacco suppliers, pipe related esoterica,
etc. We ask that posts be limited only to tobacco smoking. Other
smoking substances have their own groups and venues and we would
encourage you to go there to discuss them.
Commercial advertising is not forbidden, but vendors are asked
to exercise restraint. It is the majority opinion that brief,
periodic (i.e. once or twice a month) notices from pipe and tobacco
vendors who maintain a continuous presence on the 'Net are acceptable;
such announcements should consist of a *brief* introduction and a URL
where the reader may find additional information. It is also
requested that "AD:" be included in the subject line, to designate the
article as a commercial advertisement. Buy/sell/trade lists from
private individuals are also acceptable, in moderation. NOTE: if you
are in the practice of selling pipes on a continuous or
semi-continuous basis, then you should consider yourself a commercial
vendor and follow the appropriate guidelines, even if this is not your
primary source of income. Advertisements for items up for auction on
eBay, etc. are considered to be commercial, as well. Posts of an
informative nature by individuals not directly connected to a
commercial concern do not fall into the commercial category. This is
a fairly liberal policy; please don't abuse it.
Binary messages should not be posted to alt.smokers.pipes.
(For those who don't know what this means, a "binary" is any file
that is not plain ASCII and includes, but is not limited to, .gifs,
.jpgs, .zip'd or otherwise compressed files, and word processor
documents.) In fact, binary messages are not permitted in any
discussion group unless specifically allowed by the charter. The
members of a.s.p. have decided that binaries are not appropriate for
this group. This decision was made after long debate and a public
vote; please observe it. There is an "alt.binaries.*"
hierarchy, and any binaries should be posted there. Unfortunately,
the binary groups are not available from all ISPs. In that case the
binary file should be placed at some web or ftp site. In any event,
announcements such as "I've placed xxx at yyy, please take a look
at it" are appropriate to post in alt.smokers.pipes.
Please do not post articles in HTML format. Many people (myself
included) choose not use HTML-capable newsreaders, and HTML tags make
messages very difficult to read.
Political discussions are tolerated on the group, so long
as they relate directly to pipe smoking and pipe smoking issues.
Just do your best to be reasonably polite to the opposition when
discussing these emotionally-charged issues.
Cross-posting to more than one group is a bad habit, although
the consensus seems to be that this is not a breach of 'Net
etiquette until the number of groups becomes too large (whatever
that means). The problem is that follow-ups to that message are
also posted to each group and huge snowballing flame wars erupt and
rage interminably. These flame wars are of no interest to the
thousands of people who read the victim groups. Before you post a
response to a message, please check the headers to see if the
original message was cross-posted. When following-up to a
cross-posted message, always try to edit the header and post only to
the group you actually read. Readers of the other groups will,
sadly, miss your contributed wisdom.
Finally, we take great pride in the fact that a.s.p. is one of
the most civil USENET newsgroups. While intelligent debate is
perfectly acceptable, flames and personal attacks are not. We're
all human, and tempers will inevitably flare, but please think twice
before posting a response in the heat of the moment. When in doubt,
take it to e-mail.
First, DO NOT POST A FOLLOW-UP TO THE GROUP. Let me say that one
more time. DO NOT POST A FOLLOW-UP TO THE GROUP. This merely
contributes to the problem. Examples of inappropriate posts and
suggested responses are listed below.
TROLLS. "Trolls" are messages from people who derive perverse
pleasure from driving others to anger. Often, these people will
make a brief, inflammatory statement and sit back to watch the
sparks fly. How do you know if a message is a troll? If you think
it might be, it probably is. RESPONSE: Ignore them completely. If
you simply MUST respond, do it privately, via e-mail.
WRONG GROUP. Occasionally someone will make an honest mistake
and post a message to the wrong group. Most people don't take the
time to read FAQs, so they may be ignorant of what is considered
appropriate for a specific group. A "wrong group" post can also
result from a response to a cross-posted message. RESPONSE: Send an
e-mail politely directing them to the appropriate group. Some
relevant examples are listed below:
cigar smoking alt.smokers.cigars
general smokers' issues alt.smokers
non-smokers' issues alt.support.non-smokers
quitting smoking alt.support.stop-smoking
drugs (legal and otherwise) alt.drugs.*
BINARIES. (See "posting guidelines" above.) RESPONSE: Politely
ask the offender via e-mail not to do this, perhaps including a copy
of the relevant portion of this FAQ.
FREQUENT REQUESTS. These are not inappropriate per se, but they
do increase traffic and are a burden for those who would like to help
newcomers and others just looking for information. RESPONSE: Direct
them to this FAQ or to one of the many sources of information
available on the Internet.
SPAMs. These are messages posted to a large number of groups,
which the offender DOES NOT READ, often advertising a marginally
legal method to "MAKE MONEY FAST." (Use of the word "SPAM" in this
context, by the way, is derived from a Monty Python comedy skit.)
The people who post these sorts of messages are the scum of the
earth. USENET was designed on the "honor system," and some people
have none. RESPONSE: IT IS POINTLESS TO REPLY to the message by
posting to the newsgroup; the offender will never see your reply.
If you want to reply privately by e-mail, that is your business.
Be aware that many such messages have bogus return addresses so that
you cannot reply. The best way to complain is to send e-mail to
the postmaster at the offender's site. Again, because the sender's
address may be bogus, you have to inspect the headers to see where
it is really coming from. Even those headers may be forged. Copy the
entire message, including all of the headers, and send it to the
site's postmaster, with a brief introductory note. There are several
newsgroups in the "news.admin.net-abuse.*" hierarchy for news of and
comment on these abuses. Some other useful resources are listed
below.
Net Abuse FAQ:
http://www.cybernothing.org/faqs/net-abuse-faq.html
alt.spam FAQ (how to find the origin of a fake post or e-mail):
http://digital.net/~gandalf/spamfaq.html
TEST MESSAGES. Messages of the form "Test, don't read, please
ignore" are not appropriate in any discussion group. The response
to these should be the same as that for "wrong group" posts. If you
need to test your newsreader, there is a group, alt.test,
specifically for that purpose. In fact, many geographic domains
maintain *.test newsgroups, and it is recommended that you use the
one "closest" to you. NOTE: Many automatic mailers watch
alt.test and will bombard you with copies of your test message. To
avoid that, include the word "ignore" anywhere in your "Subject:"
line. If you simply *MUST* post a message to a.s.p. to test your
newsreader, then at least take the time to say something about pipes.
The short answer: "Pick one you like." If you need more
guidance than that, keep reading.
MATERIAL. For your first pipe, you'll probably want one made of
briar. "Briar" is wood from the burl (that portion between the root
and the trunk) of the white heath (Erica arborea), a small tree or
bush that grows in the Mediterranean region. Briar is durable, heat-
resistant, and pleasing in appearance. There are other materials--
such as clay, meerschaum, and porcelain--that are also used to make
pipes, but these materials are fragile and lack the smoking
characteristics and ease of use of briar. Corncob pipes are the
least expensive option for a first pipe, and they are a viable
alternative to briar; however, they often have very small bowls
(the bowl is the part of the pipe that holds the tobacco) and
brittle plastic stems (the part that you place in your mouth) that are
quite easy to bite through. Most briar pipes have stems made of
vulcanite (rubber) or lucite (acrylic); either material works fine,
and stem material is purely a matter of personal choice. Vulcanite is
softer, which many find more comfortable, but lucite is more durable
and resists oxidation.
PRICE. Pipes range in price from a couple of dollars to several
thousand; it is recommended that you stay closer to the lower end of
this range for your first pipe. By purchasing a moderately-priced
pipe, you will not be out a large sum if you determine that pipe
smoking isn't for you. A reasonably good quality "basket pipe" (so
called because most tobacconists keep their lower-priced, "no-name"
pipes in an open basket near the sales counter) can be had for as
little as $15, and many "name brand" manufacturers produce pipes in
the $35-60 range. You'll probably want to avoid very small pipes, as
they tend to smoke hot, and very large ones, as they are often harder
for a novice to keep lit and may hold too much tobacco for to
comfortably finish initially. Do not purchase one of those pipes you
may find in plastic bubble packaging at your local discount store if
you can avoid it; instead, seek out a good tobacconist and ask for his
or her recommendation. Not only will this give you a broader
selection from which to choose, but the tobacconist is likely to have
some good advice on how to get started. Don't be afraid to tell the
shop owner that you're a novice. He or she will figure this out
pretty quickly on their own anyway, and it is in their own best
interest to help you select a pipe and tobacco that they think you'll
enjoy. If you don't know where to find a reputable tobacconist,
check the Pipes Digest Resource Guide at:
http://www.pipes.org/resource_guide.html
or ask the newsgroup for a recommendation. While you're buying the
pipe, pick up a package of pipe cleaners (the soft, cotton ones are
best for most purposes), and a cheap "pipe tool" or "tamper"; you'll
need them.
FILTERS. You should not be inhaling smoke, so a filter is, in
the opinion of many, superfluous. One major drawback to most
filtering systems is that they tend to affect the taste of the
tobacco--for the worse--if not kept meticulously clean. With that
said, in some parts of the world, particularly central Europe, pipe
filters are quite common. I currently live in Germany, and many of
the pipes sold here have a cavity in the shank (that part of the pipe
that connects the bowl to the stem) designed to accomodate 9mm
filters. There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a filter in
your pipe. If you prefer filters, then by all means use them.
Nevertheless, you don't need them.
SHAPE. This is purely a matter of personal taste. Many pipe
smokers prefer pipes that are bent, as they "hang" easier, putting
less strain on the teeth and jaw. Personally, I prefer straight-
stemmed pipes, predominately for aesthetic reasons, but also because
it is easier to insert a pipe cleaner to absorb the condensate that
occasionally collects in the shank while smoking. For a detailed
study of pipe shapes and pipe anatomy, see The OoOPS Guide to
Identifying Pipes:
http://www.fujipub.com/ooops/pipeshap.html
SECONDS. A true "second" is a pipe that has some kind of
flaw (which is almost always cosmetic in nature) and is therefore
not deemed worthy to carry the manufacturer's usual brand name.
Typically, such pipes are simply stamped "Imported Briar," or
something similar; however, some manufacturers have distinctive
stampings for their cosmetically-challenged pipes (such as Peterson's
"Irish Seconds"). You can find some very good pipes at a reduced
price because they have surface flaws--pits, putty "fills" in the
briar, imperfect carving, etc.--that do not affect the way they smoke
at all. Many of the inexpensive pipes that you will find at your
tobacconist (to include "basket pipes" and most "house brands") are
"seconds" of one sort or another.
ESTATE PIPES. In the pipe smoking community, "estate" is a
euphemism for "used." By buying an estate pipe, it is possible to
get a high quality pipe for much less than it would cost new. (It is
also possible to buy a piece of junk at a greatly inflated price, so
caveat emptor applies.) While these pipes are usually thoroughly
cleaned before they are sold, some people are appalled at the idea of
smoking a pipe that was smoked by someone else; I wonder if
these people bring their own silverware to restaurants. It should be
noted that the previous owner's smoking habits will have at least
a minor affect on the taste the pipe will impart to tobacco. This
is the primary reason why I personally prefer new pipes to their
pre-smoked counterparts.
This question lends itself to the short answer given in
section 2.1 above. If you have had experience with only cigarettes
and cigars, you're in for a real treat. The variety of pipe tobaccos
is positively staggering, and the flavor of a blend is influenced not
only by its component tobaccos, but also by myriad other factors such
as the style of cut and the pipe used to smoke it. The only way to
determine which sort of tobacco is right for you is to try a number
of very different blends to decide which general type you like, and
then proceed from there. Some of us are constantly searching for the
perfect blend, affectionately known as "The Holy Grail."
"DRUGSTORE" TOBACCOS. Generally, you will be better off
purchasing your tobacco from a tobacconist. Many of the commonly
available blends found in discount stores or supermakets are made from
lower quality tobacco, and the additives with which they are laced for
preservation and "taste enhancement" alter the way a tobacco smokes,
usually for the worse. Of course, there is no harm at all in sampling
these tobaccos; you may discover that one such blend is just your cup
of tea. Most "drugstore blends" have been around for decades, so they
must have something going for them.
AROMATICS VS. NON-AROMATICS. These are the two broadest
subdivisions of pipe tobaccos. As a general rule, most beginning
smokers tend to go for an "aromatic" tobacco, which has been "cased"
or "topped" with flavorings such as vanilla, cherry, etc., while
those converting from cigars or cigarettes often prefer an
"non-aromatic" or "natural" tobacco.
AROMATICS. A good aromatic tobacco is lightly topped
with a natural flavoring. Aromatics tend to be more moist
than non-aromatics, which can lead to problems smoking them.
These problems can be avoided if care is taken in the
preparation of the tobacco and in the pack of the pipe.
NON-AROMATICS. These are tobaccos that contain no flavored
additives; in fact, a good non-aromatic blend will contain no
additives whatsoever, other than perhaps a bit of water. [SIDE
NOTE: You may see the word "English" used as a descriptor for
non-aromatic or natural blends. To some purists, an English
blend contains only Virginias and latakia (described below), and
the term is used in a broad sense by some to refer to almost any
unflavored tobacco (at one time, British law prohibited
adulterants in tobacco). Typically, however, the term is used
to describe a non-aromatic blend that contains latakia.]
COMMON TYPES OF TOBACCO.
BURLEY. A low-sugar, high nicotine, slow-burning tobacco
with a very subtle flavor, burley is often used as a base
for aromatics or to modify the burning characteristics of a
blend.
CAVENDISH. A term with a variety of meanings. Generally,
a cavendish is "sweetened" in some way, either by a processing
technique or by additives, or both.
LATAKIA. A "spice" tobacco that is cured over the smoke of
particular types of wood. (You may read that it is cured over
fires fueled by dried camel dung, but this is not the case.)
Latakia has a distinctive "smoky" taste and a pungent aroma that
some find very pleasant and others find just the opposite.
Latakia adds body and depth to the flavor of many natural blends.
ORIENTALS. By definition, "Orientals" are those tobaccos
indigenous to the eastern Mediterranean region, including the
various "Turkish" tobaccos and latakia. An "Oriental blend"
contains at least one and often several of these tobaccos.
PERIQUE. Another "spice" tobacco grown only in St. James
Parish, Louisiana. Perique is subjected to extreme pressure and
is allowed to ferment as it is cured, which results in a very
distinctive tobacco.
TURKISH. Any of a number of tobaccos grown in numerous
locales throughout the eastern Mediterranean region. Common
"Turkish" varieties include Basma, Smyrna, Xanthi, Samsun,
Izmir, Drama, and Yenidje. Generally, these names are derived
from the region in which they are grown. Turkish tobaccos have
a somewhat sweet, spicy flavor that gives "body" to many blends.
VIRGINIA. Despite the name, Virginias are grown in
numerous locales. There are several varieties of Virginias, but
all are characterized a relatively high sugar content.
Virginias are often used as the base tobacco in blends, but they
are smoked "straight" as well. Straight Virginias undergo
changes in flavor as they age, similar to fine wines. Lighter
in body than Oriental blends, they have a subtle complexity of
flavor that makes them a favorite of many experienced smokers.
The moisture content of a tobacco affects the way it smokes and
tastes; a tobacco that is too moist or too dry will not offer a
pleasing smoke. One way to determine if your tobacco has the proper
level of moisture is the "pinch test." Take a pinch of your tobacco
and squeeze it tightly for a couple of seconds, then release it. If
it immediately starts to "unravel," your tobacco is in good shape.
If it stays in a tight clump, it is too wet. If it crumbles, it is
too dry.
Tobacco purchased in tins should retain its moisture for several
weeks after opening. Blends purchased in "bulk," or tinned tobaccos
that are to be stored for many weeks or months after opening should
be stored in some type of container. Standard "ziplock" sandwich
bags are not airtight, and your tobacco will dry out over time if
they are used for storage. Similar bags designed for use in the
freezer are better, but still aren't completely satisfactory for
anything other than relatively short term storage. Some people
advocate the use of multiple bags in a Tupperware container, "Mason"
jars, or heat-sealed, vacuum-pack bags. All of these methods are
satisfactory; however, I prefer to use bail-top jars with rubber
gaskets.
If your tobacco is too moist, you can leave the container open
slightly, while monitoring it closely. If your tobacco has dried
out, it is usually possible to revive it. (There is a point beyond
which no amount of re-moistening is going to restore the flavor of a
tobacco, but that time span is generally measured in months or
years.) Some advocate placing a slice of apple or potato in the
tobacco container. This will work, but if left too long, you run the
risk of introducing mold with this technique. Unlike cheese, the
flavor of tobacco is not improved by mold, and once your container
has been so contaminated, it is almost impossible to completely rid
it of the mold spores that will attempt to infest any tobacco placed
in that container in the future. A much safer method is to spray a
tiny amount of water into the container and reseal it for a day or
two, or purchase a ceramic humidifying disk from your tobacconist and
place it in the storage container.
The process of "breaking in" a pipe serves two functions.
First, any saps, resins, acids, stains, demons, or other nasty
things that have remained in the briar are driven out. Second, and
most importantly, a "cake"--the layer of charred residue that
builds up inside the bowl as tobacco is smoked in it--is developed.
This cake protects the bowl of the pipe from the heat of burning
tobacco and prevents it from "burning out." It should be noted that
most of the information in this section applies to briar pipes only.
Most other pipes require no break in period, or at most a very brief
one. Additionally, one should not allow a cake to build up in a
meerschaum or clay, as this could cause the bowl to crack.
It is important to smoke a new pipe slowly, to avoid damaging
the naked briar. Some recommend that a new pipe be filled only
one-third to one-half full for the first several smokes, after which
the bowl can be filled a little more with each smoke. To be honest,
this procedure is not necessary, but I always recommend it--and
usually practice it--because it is all too easy to damage a new pipe
through carelessness. Don't try to rush the break-in period, and
don't be overly concerned if a new pipe has a bitter taste. Some
pipes break in easier than others, and it is not uncommon for a pipe
that is very difficult to break in to mature into a great smoker.
Some pipes are sold with a bowl coating designed to protect the
briar until a cake is built up (sometimes such bowls are called "pre-
carbonized"). Many pipes, however, are not so treated. While a
"naked" bowl is not likely to be damaged so long as the pipe is
smoked slowly, many people advocate preparing the bowl interior of a
new pipe. Some recommend that the inside of the bowl be dampened
with water to protect the briar, while others recommend honey, or a
mixture of honey and water. Honey may help a cake form more quickly,
but after trying all of these techniques I find that these days I
tend to use plain water or nothing at all.
Finally, do not smoke a new pipe outdoors if you can possibly
avoid it. Even a gentle breeze will cause the pipe to burn much
hotter than it would indoors, which can irreparably damage a briar
that is not protected by a cake. I've never had a problem smoking my
pipes outdoors (after they've been broken in, of course), but if
you're concerned about possible damage, you can purchase wind caps
from your tobacconist which will shield the burning tobacco from the
effects of wind.
A pipe must be packed properly to ensure a good smoke;
unfortunately, learning to do this takes time and practice. In
fact, the art of packing a pipe is the most difficult task
associated with pipe smoking, and this can be very frustrating for
the beginner. I suspect that most people who have given up on
trying to learn to smoke a pipe did so primarily because they
couldn't master packing a bowl quickly enough to suit them.
The most common technique for packing a pipe is the "three
layer" method. The objective is to end up with a bowl that is
evenly packed from top to bottom; this is done by packing each
layer progressively tighter. Trickle tobacco into the bowl until
it is slightly overfull, then press very lightly with your finger
until the bowl appears half full. Fill the pipe again and press
down until the pipe is 2/3 to 3/4 full. Finally, overfill the pipe
and press the top layer down fairly firmly. When finished the
tobacco should feel "springy" to the touch. If it has no give at
all, it's packed too tight. If a touch leaves an indentation, it is
packed too loosely. Finally, test the "draw" by sucking air through
the unlit pipe; the resistance should be about like that felt when
sipping a soft drink through a straw. If the draw doesn't feel
right, then empty the bowl and start over. A slightly different
touch must be used depending on the size of the bowl and the cut and
moisture level of the tobacco, but this will become second nature
with experience. In fact, you will undoubtedly develop your own
packing techniques with time, and you will find yourself loading
your pipe without even thinking about it.
If you find yourself frustrated by the fact that you simply
can't get the feel for packing your pipe, you might want to try a
method suggested by Mike Butera. Mike recommends chopping the
tobacco, reducing the ribbons into rectangles or squares about 1/4"
long. The bowl is then packed as described above. Some people
have found that this method can make the task of packing a bowl
much easier.
Barring such bizarre contraptions as parabolic mirrors, lasers,
and miniature blowtorches, there are three ways to light your pipe:
with a match, with a butane lighter, or with a fluid lighter (e.g. a
"Zippo").
The wooden match is the traditional pipe lighting device.
Strike the match and hold it for a second or two while the sulfur
burns off. Bring the match to the tobacco surface and, while
puffing gently, move the match around the tobacco in a slow, even
circle. I am tempted to state my opinion that anyone who would use
anything but wooden matches to light their pipe is a barbarian, but,
for the sake of objectivity, I won't.
Butane lighters are more convenient than matches, and, unlike
fluid lighters, they will not impart an unpleasant taste to your
tobacco. If you wish to use a butane lighter, then purchase one
that is designed for pipes. Such lighters have an angled gas outlet
that makes it easier to direct the flame into the bowl while
avoiding burned fingers.
Fluid lighters share the convenience feature of butane, and
they provide the only truly reliable means of lighting a pipe in a
stiff wind. Zippo makes a lighter designed for pipes that has a
circular hole in the chimney which is placed over the bowl while the
flame is "sucked" into the tobacco. Other types of fluid lighters
may be used as well, but their broad flame makes it all too easy to
char the rim of the pipe bowl. The primary disadvantage to fluid
lighters is that they impart a slight taste to the tobacco. Some
swear that this can be prevented if one merely waits a few seconds
after igniting the lighter before lighting the tobacco. I can still
taste (smell?) the lighter fluid, however, and I prefer my tobacco
sans naphtha.
Don't be overly concerned if you have difficulty keeping your
pipe lit at first. It is not unusual for even experienced smokers
to have to re-light several times, especially toward the bottom of
the bowl. Try to relax and enjoy yourself--that is the whole
point, after all. You'll find it much easier to keep your pipe lit
with practice.
CHARRING LIGHT. The best way to keep your pipe lit is to light
it correctly at the beginning. Most people light their pipe twice.
Light the pipe as described above and puff a half dozen times or so.
Then tamp the surface of the tobacco down with your pipe tool and
re-light. The first lighting, often called the "charring light,"
will char the top of the tobacco and prepare this surface for the
second lighting which will, with practice, take you through most of
the bowl.
TAMPING. While smoking, ash residue will form at the top of the
tobacco. This residue should be gently tamped down periodically
during the course of a smoke and prior to re-lighting. This tamping
serves to keep the tobacco--which expands as it burns--properly
packed and promotes even burning. If the pipe has an especially tall
bowl, the ash may sometimes become so thick that it is difficult to
re-light the tobacco below it. If this occurs, loosen the ash gently
with your pipe tool, dump the ash, tamp, and re-light.
SMOKING PACE. The pace at which you smoke (i.e. the rhythm at
which you puff your pipe) is very important. With practice and
experimentation you will achieve the perfect pace for you. The idea
is to puff frequently enough to keep the tobacco lit, but not so
frequently as to cause the pipe to burn too hot, which contributes to
tongue bite and may damage your pipe. If you can't hold the bowl of
your pipe comfortably in your hand, or if you can't hold the side of
the bowl against your face for more than a few seconds, then you're
smoking too fast. If this happens, set the pipe down for a few
minutes to cool, then re-light and start again. Someone once
described the perfect smoking pace as one where the pipe is always on
the verge of going out.
Your pipe should be cleaned after each smoke. To do this, first
let the pipe cool and then scoop or dump out any ash and "dottle"
(unburned tobacco that sometimes remains in the bottom of the bowl).
Do not bang the pipe against a hard surface, as this may result in
a cracked shank or broken stem. If you must, hold the bowl of the
pipe in one hand and strike the top of the bowl against the open
palm of the opposite hand. Once the bowl is empty, run a pipe
cleaner through the stem until it just enters the bowl and remove
it. Repeat with additional cleaners until they come out clean (many
people, myself included, will use both ends of a pipe cleaner before
switching to a new one). Finally, take one of the used cleaners,
bend it into a "U" shape, and wipe out the ash clinging to the
sides of the bowl. [NOTE: Some people prefer to leave the ash in the
bowl, believing that it promotes a good cake. If you like, try both
ways and see what works best for you.] Set the pipe aside to dry
completely. *Ideally*, the pipe should be allowed to "rest"
for around 48 hours before smoking it again, but you might have to
forgo this luxury until you have enough pipes to do so.
Periodically, you'll want to clean your pipe a bit more
thoroughly. In addition to the steps above, you'll also want to
carefully remove the stem from the shank and wipe out the "gunk"
that collects in the mortise; a cotton swab (e.g. a "Q-tip") works
well for this task. Some people also advocate periodic cleaning
of the stem and shank with pipe cleaners soaked in alcohol
(preferably some form of grain alcohol), particularly if the pipe
begins to taste a bit musty or sour. Do not, however, get alcohol
anywhere near the bowl of a meerschaum pipe.
CAUTION! PAY ATTENTION HERE!! Never, ever, ever take the stem
out of a pipe while it is still hot. Allow the pipe to cool for at
least an hour before attempting to remove the stem. [I'm of the
opinion that you should let the pipe dry completely before removing
the stem, as well.] Repeatedly removing the stem from a hot pipe
will result in a loose stem at best, and you may even end up with a
broken tenon or a cracked shank. With that said, there are pipes
that are designed to have their stem removed while still hot. This
sort of stem is called a "military bit" or an "army mount," since
pipes such as these were originally designed for military men (I'm not
being non-PC; there simply weren't any military women in those days),
who might have need to stow their pipes on short notice. The stem's
tenon on such a pipe is tapered to provide a friction fit, and the
shank is almost always reinforced with a metal "cup" or band.
"Tongue bite," an intense burning sensation of the tongue,
is an unpleasant side effect often experienced by the new pipe
smoker (it is also experienced by non-newbies who take up the pipe
again after a period of abstinence). While irritating, it will
usually go away after a week or so of smoking. If you experience
this problem for an extended period, then you may be smoking a
tobacco that's too moist, you may have failed to pack the bowl
properly, or you're smoking too fast.
This is caused by moisture collecting in the bottom of the bowl
and/or in the shank or stem. Possible causes of "gurgle" are:
Smoking too fast. Water vapor is a by-product of
combustion, and rapid smoking will produce large amounts of it,
which will then condense in the shank and stem.
Smoking a pipe that is not yet broken-in. I'm not certain
if this occurs because the briar has not dried completely,
because there is no cake, or "just because." Still, a new pipe
will often smoke wet.
Smoking a tobacco that is too moist. This is self
explanatory. In addition, some tobaccos, particularly
aromatics, tend to leave more liquid residue than others.
Saliva in the pipe. Salivation is a normal response to
smoking, and this saliva can collect in the stem. Keep your
tongue away from the mouthpiece opening, and try to keep your
mouth as dry as possible.
If your pipe begins to gurgle while smoking, run a pipe cleaner
down the stem to absorb the moisture. This can be a bit tricky with
some bent pipes, but it's usually possible if you put a small bend in
the end of the cleaner and rotate it "just right."
This section addresses questions that may crop up once you have
mastered the basics. If you have a question that you think should
be added here, please let me know.
After a pipe has been smoked for a long time its cake may become
so thick that it significantly reduces the capacity of the bowl. In
very extreme cases, an overly thick cake may actually crack the bowl
due to differential expansion. Ideally, the cake should not exceed
one-sixteenth of an inch (about 1.5 mm) or so. When the cake exceeds
this thickness, it should be carefully reamed. Some pipe tools have
a blunt-pointed (to prevent gouging of the bowl bottom) knife blade
for this purpose. While these will work, it is very easy to trim the
cake unevenly or even inadvertently dig into bare wood. Numerous
adjustable, multibladed reamers are available commercially, and these
will do a much neater job. My favorite tool for this task--suggested
to me by pipe remairman extraordinaire JT Cooke--is nothing more than
a series of short wooden dowels of varying diameters that I wrap with
fine grit emery cloth or sandpaper. Whatever device you choose to
use, work very slowly and carefully to prevent damage to your pipe.
The idea is to gradually shave the cake down to the proper thickness,
not to scrape it out in chunks. If you have more than the usual
number of thumbs, you might want to take the pipe to your tobacconist,
who will usually perform this task for a nominal fee.
A pipe, properly cared for, will probably outlast its owner.
Occasionally, however, a pipe may begin to taste bitter or "sour."
Sometimes this is caused by not allowing the pipe sufficient time
to "rest" between smokes; other times, no cause can be determined
with certainty. In any event, such a pipe can usually be
rejuvenated by applying the "Professor's Pipe-Sweetening
Treatment," publicized by Dennis Congos.
First, find some salt (non-iodized is preferred, but not
essential), some alcohol (preferably "Everclear," or some other form
of near-pure, non-denatured ethanol), and a place to rest your pipe
in a semi-upright position. Insert a pipe cleaner into the stem of
the pipe so that it extends into the shank. Fill the bowl to the
rim with salt and drip or carefully pour alcohol into the bowl until
the salt is just saturated. Try not to get any alcohol on the
pipe's exterior, as this may damage the finish; any spills should be
wiped up immediately. Leave the pipe alone for a day or two. After
this time the salt will have turned brown from the absorption
of "tars" from the bowl. Thoroughly clean all salt from the bowl
and set the pipe aside overnight to dry completely. Your pipe will
now be revitalized, and all traces of bitterness should be gone.
WARNING: Many people swear by this process, but the procedure is not
risk-free. Some people have had pipes crack after this treatment,
particularly when they allowed the salt and alcohol mixture to
enter the pipe's shank and/or when they left the mixture in the pipe
for several days. Any pipe with significant monetary or sentimental
value should be sent to a professional pipe repairperson.
Even if you're careful to never remove the stem from a hot
pipe, you may occasionally be faced with a loose stem. Often this
problem will fix itself with time, but if the stem is so loose that
it is in danger of falling out, then something must be done. The
safest bet is to take the pipe to a tobacconist or send it to a
repairperson. These people will have a great deal of practice
performing this task, and they will do it for a very modest fee.
It is remarkably easy for an amateur to crack a shank while
attempting this repair, as many of us can sadly attest.
Nevertheless, if you are determined to do this yourself, you
must first determine what sort of stem you have. If the stem is
lucite, the easiest fix is to apply a very thin layer of clear nail
polish to the tenon, allow this to dry *completely*, and then
carefully sand the tenon to fit. A vulcanite stem, on the other
hand, is a bit more complicated, as you will need to heat the tenon
and expand it in some way. There are a number of variations to this
procedure, but the most common one is described below.
First, remove the stem from the pipe and insert a pipe cleaner
into the stem so that it just reaches the end of the tenon (this
is to ensure that you don't collapse the air hole). Next,
carefully heat the tenon over a match for about five seconds (the
intent is to soften the vulcanite, not melt it). Then gently press
the end of the tenon against a flat surface, keeping the tenon as
perpendicular to the surface as possible, taking care not bend the
tenon to one side or the other. After the stem has cooled, test fit
it. If the stem is still too loose, repeat this procedure. If it is
now too tight, then see "What should I do with a stem that's too
tight?" below. NOTE: It is *very* easy to ruin a perfectly good pipe
with this technique, and I feel I should reiterate my earlier
statement that this job is best undertaken by a "professional."
A less radical (and *much* safer) procedure that has been
recommended to me by several people is to simply rub the stem's tenon
against a block of beeswax until the tenon is well coated. Once this
is complete, reinsert the stem. I am told that the joint will
tighten after a smoke or two.
If the stem is still inserted in the pipe and is so difficult to
remove that you fear your pipe may be damaged, then place the pipe in
the freezer for several minutes. This works the vast majority of the
time; however, if the stem still proves too difficult to remove,
smoke the pipe, allow it to cool, and try to remove the stem again.
If neither of these techniques work, then send the pipe to a
reputable repairperson.
If you do manage to remove the stem, place some sort of dry
lubricant, such as graphite (from a soft pencil) or wax, on the tenon
and attempt to reinsert the stem. If this does not provide
satisfactory results, you will need to remove a small amount of
material from the tenon. Wrap some very fine (400 grit or so)
sandpaper or some "O" or finer grade steel wool around the tenon and
twist the stem gently. Work very slowly and carefully, and check the
fit frequently until it is satisfactory.
Vulcanite stems can oxidize, turning a disgusting brownish green
color. This is one case where "an ounce of prevention" definitely
pays off. Avoid exposing vulcanite stems to direct sunlight whenever
possible, and wipe off your stems after each use. When oxidation
does begin to form, it can often be removed with a mild abrasive,
such as baking soda or toothpaste. If the oxidation is too severe
for this treatment, jeweler's rouge or an automobile rubbing
compound will often do the trick. For truly stubborn stems more
drastic measures may be required. An overnight soak in household
bleach will turn your stems black again, but you should be careful
to cover any stem logos with a blob of petroleum jelly to protect
them prior to soaking, and you should be prepared to apply some
elbow grease to polish the stem surface, which will be roughened by
this treatment.
Professionals (and "serious amateurs") remove oxidation with a
buffing wheel loaded with Tripoli or some similar abrasive and then
apply carnuba wax to protect the stem and bring out a high shine.
If you wish to put a buffing rig, consult with someone experienced
in such matters. It's all too easy to burn a stem on a buffing wheel
running at excessively high speed or, for that matter, to catapult a
briar into your face.
First, and most importantly, don't drop it. Meerschaum is
fragile, and it is very unlikely that your pipe will survive a dive
to the kitchen floor. Second, do not allow a cake to build in the
bowl (firmly swabbing out all the ash residue with a bent pipe
cleaner after each smoke should do the trick). If your pipe does
start to build a cake, then ream it out very carefully. Third, if
your pipe has a screw-in shank fitting (as most meerschaums do),
twist the stem clockwise while removing it; twisting
counter-clockwise could unscrew the fitting, and doing so repeatedly
can strip the shank threads. Finally, meerschaum is a very
absorbent, inorganic material, and does not require the same "rest
period" that briars do. Still, I would at least allow the pipe to
cool and dry completely before loading up and smoking it again.
Many meerschaum aficionados claim that to insure proper
"coloring" of the bowl you should never hold the bowl with your bare
hands while smoking. This may be true, but I would much rather have a
meerschaum with an unevenly colored bowl than to have to go through
the hassle of holding my pipe by the stem or (horrors!) wearing kid
gloves to smoke.
Good question. Will a $500 pipe smoke 10 times better than a
$50 pipe? Probably not. Does this mean the $500 pipe is a "poor
value"? Not necessarily.
Like most things in life, you generally get what you pay for
when you buy a pipe. A number of factors contribute to the price of
a pipe, not the least of which is the amount of time and energy
expended in its production. A machine can crank out a pipe in less
than a minute, but a craftsman may spend a day or more carving a
single pipe, and such a pipe is as much a work of art as it is a
smoking instrument. Smoking these sculptures in briar can provide
tremendous pleasure, and many people are willing to pay for the
privilege.
On the other hand, many people are perfectly content to smoke
so-called "cheap" pipes. These people think that spending a large
sum of money on a hunk of wood that serves only to hold burning
tobacco is irresponsible, foolish, or both. These people do have a
point, as it is certainly possible to buy an inexpensive, machine-made
pipe that smokes perfectly well.
Like so many other aspects in this hobby, it all boils down to
personal preference. The important thing is to smoke what you like,
and don't get your nose out of joint if someone else's tastes differ
from yours.
Probably. How bad? The jury's still out. Pipe smoking is
certainly the safest form of tobacco use (with the possible exception
of nasal snuff). In fact, a review of the literature has led me to
believe that the risks are, for the most part, negligible, so long
as one smokes in moderation and does not inhale. This is not to say
that pipe smoking won't kill you, but it's less likely to do so than
your automobile. I must note that at least one study found that pipe
smokers live *longer* than non-smokers. If this is true, I'm sure
it's because pipe smoking reduces stress, and because pipe smokers
spend so much time fiddling with their pipes that they have little
time to participate in more hazardous activities. Still, if you have
a strong desire to live forever, I suggest you forgo pipe smoking (and
fried foods, and red meat, etc.).
There are three schools of thought on this issue:
1) Those who do not leave a pipe cleaner in their pipe between
smokes. These people believe that doing so prevent their pipe
from drying quickly and or properly.
2) Those who do leave a pipe cleaner in their pipe between
smokes. These people believe that doing so assists in the
absorption of nasty stuff.
3) Those who compromise by leaving a pipe cleaner in their pipe
for a short period (usually overnight), then removing it to
allow the pipe to dry completely.
Personally, I belong to group #3 a about half the time. The
rest of the time I'm a #1, unless I forget to remove the pipe
cleaner, in which case I'm an accidental #2. Bottom line: It
really doesn't matter. Whatever works for you is fine.
Flake tobaccos are those that have been pressed during
processing into a rectangular cake and then (usually after an aging
period) sliced into shingle-like "flakes" about a millimeter or so in
thickness. Most flake tobaccos are straight Virginias. Variations
on this theme include "sliced plug" (typically a flavored burley),
"cut cake," "roll cut" (which is spun into a sort of rope before
being sliced into discs, and which often has perique added to the base
Virginias), as well as "plugs" and "twists" (which are sliced by the
consumer after purchase).
Flake tobaccos and their kin must be prepared prior to smoking;
this process is known as "rubbing out" the tobacco. The traditional
technique for doing this is to place the number of flakes sufficient
to fill the pipe in the palm of one hand; then rub both palms
together over a cloth or a sheet of paper. An alternate technique is
to pinch the flakes apart with the fingertips; I usually use a
combination of these two methods to reduce the flakes to the proper
consistency. The degree to which the flakes are rubbed out will
determine the tobacco's burning characteristics and taste. The more
the flake is rubbed out, the faster and easier the tobacco will
burn. If you tend to smoke overly fast, or if you intend to smoke
outdoors, you might wish to rub the flakes out less. As with most
things related to pipe smoking, the key is practice and experience.
The answer is a qualified "yes." The stuff you'll find in your
local supermarket is not likely to age well, but high quality natural
blends, like good wines, will change with age, usually for the
better. Virginias are most noted for their tendency to improve over
time, becoming darker, sweeter and more full-bodied, but other sorts
of blends often show marked improvement as well. A "fresh" blend
will often have a harsh edge, and the tastes of each of its
component tobaccos will stand out sharply. After aging for a few
years, however, the blend will have a much softer quality, and the
flavors of its components will have "wed," producing a much more
smooth, richer tobacco.
Many pipe smokers set aside tins of their favorite blends to
age, dipping into their "cellars" from time to time to sample and
evaluate the blends as they change. It is also common for a smoker
to place into storage blends that he or she has purchased but did not
enjoy, in the hopes that they will improve with time. While this
practice does take a bit of patience, the rewards are almost always
worth it.
Storing tobacco in unopened tins is a relatively simple matter;
just put the tins in a relatively cool, dry place, such as a closet.
Storing bulk blends or opened tins for long periods of time can be
more of a challenge. Most people recommend placing the tobacco into
sealed "Mason" jars or in hermetically sealed, non-porous plastic bags
(using one of those contraptions designed for vacuum-sealing foods
that you occasionally see for sale in department stores). Reports
indicate that either technique is satisfactory.
There is obviously no single answer to this question. Many
pipe smokers will tell you that you can't have too many pipes. They
are, of course, correct, and most pipe smokers will continue to add
to their collections through the years. Still, what is the
practical minimum number of pipes required?
The number of pipes you need depends on your smoking habits and
the type of tobacco you prefer. In general, however, I am of the
opinion that you will eventually need about one pipe for each bowl of
tobacco you smoke in a week. I actually arrived at this by conducting
an informal and completely unscientific experiment.
The frequency with which I smoke varies, but during this
experiment I smoked about nine bowls a week. I attempted to smoke
for a month using only four pipes. This would allow each pipe to
rest for at least 48 hours before being smoked again. I did not
take particularly good care of these pipes; in fact, I smoked much
more aggressively and kept my tobacco more moist than usual. After
two or three weeks, the pipes began to taste a bit "off," indicating
that they were being smoked too frequently. Increasing the number of
pipes to eight fixed the problem. It appears that a good quality
pipe may, with minimal care, be smoked once a week virtually
indefinitely without ill effects. Your mileage will almost certainly
vary. If you smoke slowly and take good care of your pipes you can
undoubtedly get by with a much smaller collection.
The problem with having only a minimal number of pipes is that
you risk getting locked into a rigid, anal-retentive,
"if-it's-Tuesday-it-must-be-Savinelli" rotation scheme. With a
larger collection, you can smoke your pipes as the mood strikes you
without fear of oversmoking any of them. Of course, you'll also
want a few pipes for outdoor activities, and you'll want a few more
that fit comfortably in a pocket for nights on the town, a few
really large pipes for reading or television watching, etc.
As they say, you really can't have too many pipes.
Of course you can. In fact, many people do. Some smokers buy
"kits" with pre-drilled bowls and ready-made stems that they shape and
finish; others prefer to produce their pipes "from scratch." The
details of how to make a pipe are beyond the scope of this FAQ, but
here are two sources of pipemaking supplies and information that can
help you get started:
Stemco-Pimo, Inc.
Butternut Lane
P.O. Box 2043
Manchester Center, VT 05255
(802) 362-3371
American Smoking Pipe Co.
HC 88 Box 223
30 Tall Oaks Terrace
Pocono Lake, PA 18347
www.AmSmoke.com
There are many sources for information on pipes and pipe smoking
on the Internet, and more are popping up all the time. The two
listed below will get you to all the rest.
Steve Masticola's "Pipes Digest" is a mailing list that is a
"must-read" for every smoking 'Netizen. Send a message to
"pipes@pipes.org" and tell Steve that you'd like to subscribe. [FYI,
Steve Masticola is the creator of "alt.smokers.pipes."]
Steve Beaty's "Pipes WWW Page" is the ultimate online resource
for the pipe smoker. From here, you can subscribe to Pipes Digest,
peruse back issues of PD, or use a very efficient search engine
to find topics of interest. There are also links to just about
everything on the Internet related to pipes and pipe smoking:
http://www.pipes.org
Thanks to Sami Mikhail, who wrote the first version of this
FAQ, and to Mike Gillman, who revised it and later handed it off to
me. I only hope I haven't butchered it too badly.
Disclaimer: Everything in this document may be wrong. Don't
even think about blaming me if something breaks, blows up, runs
away, or falls off. Face it; life is a dangerous business.
Copyright 2000 by Mark Lathem, all rights reserved. This
FAQ may be freely copied for personal use and may be posted to any
non-commercial web site, ftp site, or BBS as long as it is left
completely intact, to include this copyright statement. This FAQ
may not be included in collections or compilations without
permission and may not be distributed for financial gain.
--
Mark Lathem
marklathem@usa.net
END <<----------------------- CUT HERE ----------------------->> END